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No Fear Surfing
November 24, 2008 | 02:21 AM
When I went to the Cape in the summer I always saw the surfers out there, riding small, yet other times stormy big waves and thinking I could never do that, it's too dangerous! When I started surfing I had fears that I might get hit by my board. I did, but never got seriously hurt. When I started surfing in the tropics I feared the notorious sharks that were "out there". In 25+ years of time in tropical oceans I've only seen sharks once, while snorkeling. My worst sports injuries that still haunt me to this day are ones that occurred when I was involved in sanctioned school sports. On the other hand I never felt the motivation to succeed and get better like I had when I was in surfing competitions. And years later I still feel it...
Surfer Sue
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