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The Food Issue
Fish for lunch...

March 26, 2009

Fish has been a staple food on Maui since the island was first inhabited. That’s no great surprise; when you’re living on a tiny rock in the middle of the Pacific, surrounded by the bounty of the sea, where else would you turn for sustenance? Of course, the Hawaiian people didn’t just live off the fish, they lived with them, developing innovative fishing techniques and creating the loko i’a, an impressive early example of sustainable aquaculture.

On contemporary Maui you can find just about any meat, cooked just about any way. But fish remains a perennial favorite, and for good reason: it’s versatile enough to be used in a wide array of dishes, yet powerful enough to maintain its distinct quality. Fish is appealing at all hours of the day (case in point: the ahi omelet), but the aforementioned versatility is perhaps best demonstrated at the lunch hour. (Incidentally, we contend that lunch, not breakfast, is the most important meal. But that’s a subject for another time.)

In the following pages, we highlight some choice spots to grab a midday bite of mahi-mahi, ono, etc. Whether you like your fish fried and served with malt vinegar, on a plate heaping with potato mac salad or rolled up in seaweed with a side of sake, there’s something here for you. Our selections are far from exhaustive, but that’s the point—Maui has such an embarrassment of riches when it comes to fish, it’d be near impossible to highlight every option. 

So go ahead—bait your hook and cast your line. We promise you’ll reel in something delicious. 

FISH TACOS

You’re not really on Maui until you’ve kicked off your slippers, put your feet up and watched the sun sink into the sea with a green bottle in one hand and a fish taco in the other. Even restaurants that want nothing to do with burritos, enchiladas and fajitas find a spot on the menu for this item. The preparation and fixings vary widely, but the central concept remains the same: simple, yummy, essential.

Jawz

1279 S. Kihei Rd., 874-8226

We’ll put the bad shark jokes on the shelf and just say that this is one of the most popular places on-island for a reason. Get mahi, ahi or ono on a soft tortilla with shredded cabbage, cilantro rice and creamy salsa. Two fins up—couldn’t resist. $

Maui Tacos

Islandwide, mauitacos.com

They’ve gone global, but they’ve still got Maui in their heart. Put one of their grilled fish tacos, wrapped in a soft shell and garnished with black beans, slaw and some dollops from the self-serve salsa bar, in your stomach. $

Beach Bum’s

300 Maalaea Rd., Maalaea, 244-8844

This is a great option for people who aren’t crazy about the taste of fish, or at least don’t want it to overpower the meal. An excellent mango tartar complements but doesn’t completely disguise the grilled or blackened (both are good, but we’d go blackened) fish. $$

Fred’s Mexican Cafe

2511 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 891-8600

Do the words Taco Tuesday mean anything to you? Don’t let the long line intimidate you; it’s part of the fun, and you’re guaranteed to meet some characters with a shared love of inexpensive tacos and booze. $

Milagros

3 Baldwin Ave., Paia, 579-8755

This is kind of cheating, but try the ahi burrito. It’s seriously worth it, and the corner location is the perfect spot to watch the parade of surfers, hippies and sunburned tourists. $$

Amigos

Islandwide, 879-9952

Sometimes simplicity is best; grilled mahi, lettuce and housemade pico de gallo with tortillas. Delicioso! $

Pita Paradise 

1913 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 875-7679

Again, we’re stretching the definition of “taco” but the eats at this Greek eatery are too good not to mention, and this is where they fit best. Fish of the day served in a crisp pita with an above-average tzatziki sauce. An ideal launching pad for your Friday night journey through the Triangle. $$

Santa Fe Cantina

900 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7805

Baja Mexico is famous for battered fried fish tacos. Santa Fe’s Baja-style taco nails it so you don’t have to go to hope on a plane. $$

Pinatas

395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-8707

The mahi in the soft shell tacos is grilled and served with a jalapeno cilantro sauce, finely shredded lettuce, cabbage, diced tomato and two kinds of cheese. Their guacamole is extra but so worth it. $

Los Pelones

1221 Honoapiilani Hwy, Lahaina Cannery Mall, Lahaina, 661-9900

They do your mahi three ways: grilled, cajun and baja. Try the blackened spicy cajun style and feel the heat. $$

Island Taco

Market St., across from the Iao Theater, Wailuku, 463-2973

Maybe the best bang for your buck on-island. Big, gotta-eat-it-with-a-fork soft shell tacos served with beans, cheese, cabbage, peppers, salsa and aloha by Chuck Harron, the laid-back owner (and perennial “employee of the month”) of this cool little stand. For added amusement, grab a picnic table and watch Taguma ticket cars. $

FISH SANDWICHES

If the Earl whose name is irrevocably attached to the “some-stuff-between-two-pieces-of-bread” phenomenon could see the sheer number of sandwiches that exist today, he’d probably choke on his PB&J. Even within this one subgenre, there are countless variations: fried or seared, served with tartar sauce or mayo, dressed up with lettuce and tomato or swimming solo. The fish sandwich may not be as famous as its more ubiquitous cousins (we’re looking at you, ham and Swiss), but it’s no less worthy of a place in your noonday rotation. 

Mai Tai Lounge

839 Front St., Lahaina, 661-5288

They’re famous for their drinks and some of the best views on-island, but their fish sandwich deserves to be in the conversation. Get a table upstairs, kick back in the comfy wicker furniture and enjoy. $$

Main St. Bistro

2051 Main St., Wailuku, 244-6816

Chef Tom Selman knows what to do with fish. His grilled mahi with chili aioli is can’t-miss, and you’re in a win-win situation when choosing between the mac salad or coleslaw on the side. (Might wanna splurge and opt for both.) $

Ba-Le

Islandwide, 877-2400

Fresh Vietnamese-style eats; a lighter sandwich that fills you up but doesn’t weigh you down. $

Cool Cat 

658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908

They’re known for burgers (and for good reason) but their fresh catch sandwiches—which come grilled, blackened, charbroiled and served with salsa or slathered in teriyaki—are a fine alternative for the red meat averse. $$

Stella Blues

1279 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 874-3779

The Manhattan: This is not your every day fish lunch, but it is refreshing and light. Mouthwatering Nova Scotia lox with cream cheese on a bagel with tomatoes, lettuce and capers. $

Hula Grill

2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina, 667-6636

The jalapeno aioli gives this one some kick, and the mac nut slaw is a taste bud pleasing twist on the old standby. $$

Mala

1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394; Wailea Beach Marriott Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-1922.

The combination of bun, fresh fish, veggies, housemade sauce and herbed fries is an extraordinary treat. Not to mention the gorgeous atmosphere at both Mala restaurants. $$

Ale House Restaurant & Sports Bar

355 E. Kamehameha Ave. Kahului, 877-900

Seared Ahi Wrap: Really all the wraps are good at the Ale House but since we’re talking fish, their seared Ahi melts in your mouth. This counts as a low carb lunch too, so have a draft Hefeweizen with lemon and call it even. $

808 Deli

2511 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 879-1111

They make an authentic panini. Try mouthwatering spicy tuna with jalepenos, spicy pepper jack and anaheim peppers. $

Cafe a la Plage 

2395 S. Kihei Rd, Kihei, 875-1668 

Made-to-order tuna salad on a bagel, with sliced tomato and red onion and paired with one of their delicious espressos—this lunch will fuel you up but not slow you down. $

FISH & CHIPS

We all know we have the Brits to thank for this irresistible combo, but we’d rather get ours on the Valley Isle any day. It combines two things Maui does best: fresh fish and deep-fried anything. Toss in a few of those little paper dipping cups full of whatever condiments you favor, and you’ve got yourself a casual meal that’s still worth savoring. One thing the originators in the U.K. definitely got right is the name; “fish and fries” just doesn’t have the same ring. 

Paia Fish Market

2 Baldwin Ave., Paia, 579-8030

It’s not hyperbole to say these fish and chips are out of this world—literally, they’re too good to have been crafted by human hands. Delicious batter, flaky fish and an excellent slaw on the side. Plus, those communal benches are the perfect place to meet fellow seafood connoisseurs. $$

Keoki’s Fish ‘n Chips

1819 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 891-1400

Great location with close proximity to the beach and an unbeatable bang for your buck. A generous portion of fries accompanies three good-sized hunks of ono. $

Mulligans at the Wharf

658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8881

Wouldn’t be an Irish pub without some fish and chips to soak up the ale. A convivial atmosphere lends itself to sharing your food with a friend. Or drunk stranger. $$

Cafe O’ Lei

62 N. Market St., Wailuku, 986-0044; 2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 891-1368; 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073

They call it “tempura mahi and chips” to be different, but we’ll call it what it really is: exemplary. Ask for an extra cup of the caper tartar sauce. $$

Alexander’s

Islandwide, 874-0788

Ubiquitous and convenient; you can get mahi, ahi or ono, or go outside the fish box with oysters, clams, calamari and (gasp!) chicken. $

Moose McGillycuddy’s 

844 Front St., Lahaina; 2511 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 891-8600 

Adding the words “all-you-can-eat” makes everything better. Come hungry on Friday night and don’t fill up on beer and you can get more than get your $11.95’s worth. $

Rusty Harpoon

2435 Kaanapali Pkwy., Lahaina, 661-3123

Excellent mahi; pop in during the 2-6pm happy hour for a late lunch accompanied by sippables. $$

Eskimo Candy

2665 Wai Wai Pl., Kihei, 879-5686

Satiate your small army with a 13-piece jumbo basket of mahi or ono for $19.95. Good bang for your buck. $

Maui Brewing Co.

Kahana Gateway Center, 4405 Honoapiilani Hwy., Lahaina, 669-3474

An exceptionally light batter that’s (duh) beer-based. And really good seasoned fries. And beer. Yay. $$

FISH PLATES

This is without question the most wide-open category. It can mean anything from a basic plate lunch to the kind of fancy dish you’d order at a sit-down business engagement with silverware not made from plastic and tablecloths actually made of cloth. Either way, you’ll find no shortage of choices, accentuated by a smorgasbord of sides and garnishes. Just remember: when you’re at one of those  upscale  joints, lick your plate discreetly.

Maui Grill & Bento 

2050 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2161

Butterfish Plate: Butterfish done right, with the best sides. It’s got green salad with homemade dressing plus little Asian sides like pickled veggies, tempura potato and cabbage salad. $

Hard Rock Cafe 

900 Front St., Lahaina 667-7400

Grilled Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon: It’s in the name, but when you add merlot garlic butter and white cheddar mashed potatoes it’s irresistible. The added bonus is a lunch high in Omega-3s. $$

Honokowai Okazuya 

3600 L. Honoapiilani Hwy, Honokowai 665-0512

Mahi Mahi with Lemon Caper Sauce: You haven’t truly lived until you try the lemon caper sauce here. People come from the Mainland just to eat this stuff. Plus, you can avoid the carb overload by ordering stir fry veggies with it instead of the mac salad. $

Lemongrass

Queen Kaahumanu Center, 275 W. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 871-5999

Fried Fish: You won’t believe the size of the filet in front of you or how gorgeous it looks. Full of Vietnamese flair, it’s topped with chopped tomato and fresh cilantro and their signature gravy. $$

Kahuna Kabob 

126 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina, 661-9999

Fish Kabob: Marinated fresh fish on a stick! Grilled up with veggies and brown rice if you like, it’s a healthy lunch choice. $

Penne Pasta Cafe 

180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-6633

Garlic Ahi Nicoise Salad: Best Nicoise ever. The Garlic Ahi at Penne is delicious and you can order it on any of their pastas, but the Nicoise is the bomb. $

Pacific’o

505 Front St. Lahaina, 667-4341

Sesame Seared Fish: The freshest fish bought by local fisherman is what you get here, along with the amazing Kamehameha Iki beach views, topnotch service and great martinis. Some of us can drink vodka with lunch, right? $$

Big Wave Cafe 

1215 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 891-8688

Grilled Mahi Mahi Salad: They grill fresh fish and serve it on a bed of hearts of romaine and fresh kula greens with a lemon vinaigrette. Genius. $$

Casanova

1188 Makawao Ave, Makawao 572-0220

Fresh Fish from Maui’s Ocean: They say it on the menu just like that, plus it’s served with potatoes and salad—how European. This chic Italian restaurant is a hub of activity in Makawao and their dishes make for a memorable lunch experience. $$

SUSHI

This could be the subject of an entire issue, but any run-down of fish-for-lunch options that didn’t mention Japan’s laudable culinary contribution would be incomplete. Salmon or spicy tuna, yellow tail or anago (not technically fish, we know, but tasty enough to bend the rules)—no cuisine is better at blending and utilizing the gifts of the ocean. And even if you don’t have time for a sit-down meal, those little rolls are perfect for a bite on the go.

Genki

Maui Mall, Kahului, 873-7776; 345 Keawe St. Lahaina 661-0333 

Spicy Ahi Shrimp Tempura Roll: Two words best describe Genki: instant gratification. The sushi is ready to put in your mouth the minute your butt hits the seat due to their convenient sushi conveyor. $

Matsu

161 Alamaha St., Kahului, 871-0822

Spicy Salmon Skin: This off-the-beaten-path casual Japanese eatery rolls fresh sushi to order at the counter. The spicy salmon skin handroll is not your run-of-the-mill sushi, for those of us who travel the road least taken. $

Jacques 

120 Hana Hwy., Paia, 579-8844

Hamachi Nigiri: Feel the European and tropical influences converge at this acclaimed bistro. They just started serving lunch, the perfect way to grab a bite of amazing sushi on your way to Hookipa or Hana. $$

Unisan

2102 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 244-4500

Buffet Sushi: Nobody but Chef Sam Sohn and wife Sheila are brave enough to offer the locals an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet with fresh sushi. It’s affordable, filling and delicious. $

Lahaina Fish Co.

831 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3472 

Ahi Katsu: Ahi rolled in greens, then fried with a panko crust and served with a dangerously addictive sauce. You’ll be back. $$

Pukalani Superette

15 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-7616

Maki Sushi is a flavorful local favorite usually served in an 8-inch uncut roll with canned tuna, shrimp flakes and seasoned carrots wrapped up in wax paper. You take it home or back to work and slice it into little pieces yourself. $

Ichiban 

Kahului Shopping Center, Kahului, 871-6977

Sashimi: Grab the chopsticks, pick up a slice or two of raw fish with some cabbage to give it crunch, swoosh it in the shoyu and wasabi, stick it in your mouth. Ichiban has been serving generations of Maui families in their old-school decor, and we still love it. $

VEGAN "FISH"

The topic of this year’s food issue was decided on a morning when the only vegan on staff was sleeping off quiz night. Coincidence? Maybe. So now, alas, someone who only likes fish when they’re sentient must write about fish-like dining options. For our purposes, “fish substitutes” can range from dishes designed to look like fish (tofish) to those one can order at restaurants where fish dominates the menu. Here are a few of the best bets…

Down to Earth

305, Dairy Rd., Kahului, 877-2661

“Tuno”: Instead of tuna, this meatless deli item utilizes chickpeas and garbanzo beans. $$

A Saigon Cafe

1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560

Their vegetable-tofu curry is one of the best I’ve had on Maui, and their veggie clay pot deal is in the running for the best cold and dreary day item. $$

Shangri-La by the Sea

760 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 875-4555

An associate of mine tells me that the various seafood dishes here are dynamite. But the lunch menu also includes items like the ever-hearty aloo matar (peas, potatoes and an arsenal of spices) and yellow daal (lentils and loads of spices). Plus: no fishy taste. $$

Fresh Mint

115 Baldwin Ave., Paia, 579-9144

One of the few places on-island that has fake fish on the menu. You get strips of firm-yet-flaky tofu coated with spices, topped with a sweet sauce and served with a side of rice. Mercifully, there’s no attempt to make the soy strips taste fishy; instead, the taste is rich and a bit salty. $$